by Sam Cooke
The Republic of the Union of Myanmar, or just Myanmar for short, though often still referred to as Burma, is a country with a history as complex as it is deciding what to call it. Whilst the military dictatorship, in power since 1962, formally ceded control of the country in 2011, troubles still persist today.
As the second largest country in South East Asia and the 40th largest in the world, Myanmar is made up of numerous ethnic groups. Religious clashes, including those which erupted not so long ago in Mandalay, are widespread and the government, over which the military maintains a significant influence, has been regularly criticised for its lack of suitable response to these, as well as its treatment of particular minorities.
This is a football website though, and so the history lesson stops there. It highlights, however, how despite a tremendous and nationwide love for the game, Myanmar's domestic league is still very much in its developmental infancy.
Myanmar National League
Prior to 2009 there existed only the Myanmar Premier League; a competition which consisted wholly of purely Yangon-based clubs due to the lack of suitable facilities elsewhere. Most of these clubs were government affiliated (prior to 1996 all clubs in the league preceding this one were such), with a few private clubs thrown in for good measure.
Somehow, the league never gained widespread support in the country, and the league was put to rest in 2009. In no less than 11 of the 13 seasons the championship was won by the side all young lads dream of one day proudly pulling on the jersey for: Finance and Revenue. (Honourable mention goes to Commerce, who won on two occasions, whilst the unforgettable 1998 season saw Yangon City Development shock the nation by taking home the trophy).
Forward to 2014 and the Myanmar National League just finished its fifth year, with the primary MNL Cup in 2009. It consists of 12 clubs from across the country, and from this year included the option for relegation after the recent formation of the MNL-2.
Of these first five full seasons Yangon United have come up trumps in three, whilst Yadanarbon won the other two (and are current champions) as well as the 2009 MNL Cup. The league restricts its clubs to four foreign players per squad including a player allowed from just AFC (Asian Football Confederation) countries.
Most of these foreign players tend to come from African nations with some South Americans and the odd Australian, Croatian or Macedonian player also present. The AFC visa players are mostly Japanese or South Korean. Yangon's Cesar Augusto, a Brazilian striker, was top scorer last season and topped the charts this season with 26 goals in 21 games. It's a league full of goals with an average of almost 3 per match. Edison Fonseca, of 2014 champions Yadanarbon, found the net 21 times.
The top two sides in the MNL qualify for the AFC Cup group stages. Much as the Europa League trails behind the UEFA Champions League in Europe, the AFC Champions League is made up of clubs from the continent's top fourteen 'mature' nations. The AFC Cup consists of the clubs from next best 14 'developing' nations.
This season, a place in the new 2015 ASEAN Super League was also up for grabs, a tournament in which it is proposed that clubs from across the ASEAN play for a slot in the Asian Champions League.
Yangon United: The Powerhouse
While you may think it's confusing being a Hull City fan ('oh no we might be called Hull City Tigers, whatever will we do?!') Yangon as a club have had three different names since 2007. Originally Viva FC, this club was taken over and renamed Air Bagan FC. The commencement of the MNL saw the name changed once more to Yangon United.
Owned by business tycoon Tay Za the club are the most established in the league with its own stadium, own academy and impressive sports complex with both pool and gym. They've also participated in three AFC Cups.
Yangon are currently managed by Eric Williams, an Australian coach and father to Rhys Williams, Middlesborough defender and Australian international. His other two sons, Ryan and Aryn, are also both professionals for Fulham and Aussie side Floreat Athena respectively. The job of Williams Senior is made exceptionally more challenging in that he must rely on an interpreter to get all of his messages and guidance across.
Williams has been involved with the club in some capacity, initially focusing on the youth academy, since 2009.
Training at Yangon United
The Big Derby: Yangon v Yadanarbon
As luck would have it, it emerged that I was in town for the biggest game of the season. Yangon United were hosting their rivals from Mandalay, Yadanarbon, who (at the time) were three points ahead, sitting pretty at the top of the table.
Had they extended the gap to six points they'd have been very tough to catch in the latter stages of the season. This was a big one. The excitement was such that it caused me to shell out on a official Myanmar national football shirt I had no need, nor space for.
At the main sports shop in town I paid 4000kyat (about £2.45) and went for the white away shirt option. I've done the maths so you don't have to and for the price of one men's England shirt you could get 24 and a half Myanmar shirts. Or a 4-year season ticket at Yangon United.
The Yangon United Sports Complex proved tricky to find, in that it's way out of town and an eventual collection of 5 taxi drivers couldn't work out where we meant. Their never-say-die attitude, coupled with our lack of anything else to do, got us there in the end however. We just had time for a traditional pre-match snack at the ground (of unbelievable fried eggs and rice – sorry Pukka Pies but I'm converted), though oddly no beer on sale. Coffee is the pre-match intoxicant of choice.
A match ticket was 2000kyat, coupled with getting there plus food and drinks; a Burmese day out at the football is around the £5 to £6 mark. If you get the bus and not a cab you can halve that figure.
The crowd gets up for Myanmar's biggest game
It was a near capacity crowd with the two stands packed to the rafters. We'd speculated about what type of atmosphere there'd be; the league itself has only just reached primary school age, after all. Surely this isn't enough time to learn any songs? How wrong we were.
Betel nuts and big guns
The stadium holds around 3500, but they made enough noise for twice that. Chants, screaming, jumping, flags waving, people on the edge of their seats, moreover many just standing for the 90 minutes – it was a proper derby atmosphere. Including, you didn't need to speak Burmese to realise, frequent insults hurled at both Yadanarbon and the referee from start to finish.
The atmosphere was like any big game in England; the main difference the copious amounts of betel nut (a popular chewable tobacco mixture) being spat from the stands, and the freedom to smoke openly.
It was particularly nice to see such a gender balance at the stadium. It was a near 50-50 split between male and female fans; with women of all ages bellowing out support (and I'm sure a cuss or two) just as often and as loudly as their male counterparts.
Ahead within four minutes, the Yangon crowd erupted with jubilant dancing and yet louder chants. An exciting first half brought a further two goals, with Yangon 2-1 ahead at the interval. The second half descended into somewhat of a farce; monsoon season ensured that it rained throughout and the artificial surface at the YUSC seemed more than a little slippery.
A total of five players were stretchered off as the referee lost control of the game, and shockingly late and dangerous tackles were being thrown around left, right and centre. As the discipline fell apart so did each team's structure and movement; a match which could have passed for Conference standard in the first half was, at times, reduced to Sunday League football by the second.
There were so many shots blasted hopelessly over and unnecessary 'if in doubt' clearances made, I lost count. Occasional flashes of trickery showed some of the players' potential but conditions were not ideally suited for the beautiful game. By the end it had turned into a battlefield with 2-2 a fair result.
Nobody likes a draw, I guess, and both teams were booed off by fans, some of whom had been whipped up into a near frenzy. Bottles were thrown at both the players, as they headed into the tunnel, and the riot police armed with shields and sizeable guns.
Gun-wielding police keep the crowds calm (sort of)
Blocked from leaving the ground for a while in an attempt to subdue these fans and control the situation, a local fan explained to me, chuckling all the while, how this 'happens every week'. Fortunately it didn't turn into a riot and as we headed out the exit, only a few dedicated fans remained behind who, as my new friend explained, were 'waiting for the referee'.
Glad to be out the gate, and extremely glad not to be the referee, I'd experienced Burmese domestic football and will now forever look out for the results of Yangon United.
Football in Myanmar: the people's game
Whilst it is of course a shame that this occurs, it's perhaps understandable given the ongoing political climate in the country; as with football hooliganism anywhere else it's misdirected anger and frustration given an outlet in the form of 'passionate' club support.
Football is the national sport in Myanmar – once locals have established you're English, the most popular follow up question is 'who do you support?'. Things will get better: it's integral to remember that this is a league in its absolute infancy; there are bound to be teething problems.
Yangon United v Yadanarbon – the big Burmese derby
Political problems and turmoil has seen sport as a priority relegated for decades; there's precious little infrastructure in terms of coaching or academies. Little by little though that is changing, and there's a huge pool of talent eagerly awaiting any opportunity.
Just as in the towns and cities of Brazil (that team that used to be pretty handy) street football is a big thing in Myanmar, and my damaged ego is testament to just how good some of these kids are. As Yangon United manager, Eric Williams, has said: "I've seen so many kids with great talent who can't afford the boots to play."
And the national team?
The national side participated in its first ever World Cup qualifiers in 2007, though without much success. They lost 0-4 and 0-7 to China. Of the current squad, all but one play in Myanmar. Pai Soe, plays for Phuket (if you ever get a chance to go, don't), in neighbouring Thailand.
Anyone with a historical knowledge of Asian football will be aware of the Burmese Golden Age in the 1960s and early '70s. The team were feared for good reason across the continent, winning 5 consecutive South East Asian Games gold medals; Kuala Lumpur '65, Bangkok '67, Rangoon '69, Kuala Lumpur '71 and Singapore City '73. They also won the 1966 Asian Games, beating Iran in the final, and two years later claimed silver in the 1968 Asian Cup, this time losing out to the Iranians.
At the 1970 Asian Games however, history was made. Burma claimed the gold medal and, in doing so, became only the second football squad to win the tournament twice. The team's performances declined in the years following this triumph as problems in the country itself took priority.
The stand out performer in this period was the man known as the greatest Burmese player of all time; Suk Bahadur. Captain and striker Bahadur also held the national 100m sprint record, was a successful tennis and field hockey player, and managed to hold down a day job as Major in the 4th Infantry Battalion in the army.
I for one have no doubt that given the necessary investment in academies and grassroots coaching, the second Burmese Golden Age will come again in the not too distant future. The next Suk Bahadur is just waiting to be discovered.
Want to write about football in an uncovered, overlooked part of the world? Been to a game in a far-flung corner of the globe lately? Come tell the world about it through us.
Sam Cooke is a new writer for Just Football. Follow him on Twitter @SamCooke91. All images via the writer besides image #2 via Yangon United FC on Facebook.
http://www.information.myanmaronlinecentre.com/2-45-on-a-shirt-some-coffee-and-an-introduction-to-the-crazy-world-of-football-in/
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